Review: Motorola Talkabout T460

Many years ago I purchased FRS (Family Radio Service) radios commonly called walkie talkies. I chose the Motorola T5000 because it came with 4 radios and the price was right; I know I didn’t spend much time researching them. The radios have served me well over the years. The radios operated on both FRS and GMRS (General Mobile Radio Service) frequencies. Certain frequencies (the radios have specific channels that correspond with frequencies) are FRS only, some are GMRS only and some are available on both. FRS is unlicensed whereas GMRS requires a license. Since I don’t have a GMRS license, I’ve always stuck to the FRS channels. I suspect that many people just picked a channel and used it not realizing that they were violating FCC regulations.

In 2017 the FCC adopted changes to FRS and GMRS which increased the maximum output for FRS radios (from 0.5 W to 2.0 W) and made available certain channels that were GMRS only to FRS users. They basically acknowledged that people were using the FRS/GMRS radios with no regard to which channels were being used.

The rechargeable batteries on the Motorola T5000 radios I owned had long died and with my push to have all my devices rechargeable via USB, I decided this past spring to replace the radios. The radios also had a maximum output of 0.48 W on the GMRS channels (now available for FRS) which meant that the range of the radios was quite limited.

I liked the styling of the newer Motorola Talkabout radios, so I picked up a pair of Talkabout T260 radios. I used the radios on a Scout trip and they worked quite well, but there was a place that I lost contact with another leader that was at the front of the hiking group. We also used the radios on a cruise ship and they worked pretty well across several decks even with all the steel that blocks signals. Even though the radios performed decently, I decided to do some more research on the radios. The radios are advertised with a 22 mile range; that, of course, is in ideal conditions and never happens. The manual has a chart of channels and shows the maximum output power on the different frequencies. This is quite misleading as I soon discovered. All FCC registered devices have information available on the FCC’s website including test reports showing the actual power output. Doing a search of the FCC ID AZ489FT4929, I discovered that the maximum output of the radio was 0.8 W which is far lower than the legal maximum.

After more research, I found the older manual for the radio and it appears that Motorola changed a few pieces when the new FCC regulations took effect including the chart; the old chart showed which channels were FRS and which were GMRS. The new chart was basically a waste because all the channels could be used by all users; some of the channels would have higher output. Motorola did respond to my claim that the manual was misleading by saying that the chart in the manual wasn’t there to indicate how much power the radios actually put out, but to show that it complied with the FCC maximum.

This newfound knowledge kind of bummed me out, so I went back to the drawing board and went through all the Motorola Talkabout radios (I like the design of the radios over other brands) and looked up the FCC ID of each one looking for the radios that had the highest output power (up to the legal limit). If my information is correct, the Motorola Talkabout T460 which has an FCC ID of AZ489FT4924 has a maximum output power twice that of the T260 (1.7 W). While I don’t expect to ever get the 35 mile range advertised with these radios, I at least could have radios with the highest power available.

I purchased a pair of the T460 radios and have now used the radios on a couple of trips and they are far superior to the T260 (and the old T5000 ones I had before). (While I did purchase these radios, Motorola generously sent me another pair of the T460 radios in response to my letter to them about the T260 manual). Specifically the T460 has an analog control for the volume making it easier to turn the units on/off and control the volume. They also have a feature called VibraCall which vibrates the radio the first time it receives a transmission if it hasn’t received a transmission in a certain period of time; this is handy if the volume is turned down or you happen to not be paying attention. Once the radio vibrates, you can ask the other end to repeat the message. The radios also have a weather radio, different call tones, and a few other features that are generally not of much use to me.


  • Highest power output of Motorola Talkabout radios
  • Water/splash resistant (IP54)
  • VibraCall
  • Analog volume control
  • Acceptable voice quality
  • Standby time allows for all day usage in my testing


  • Doesn’t come anywhere close to the advertised range


If you’re looking for relatively low-cost, unlicensed FRS radios, I think the Motorola Talkabout T460 are hard to beat. They have a decent range and a number of features that make them easy to use. Time, of course, will tell how durable they are and how good the range is in a variety of environments.

Monthly Battery Checks

Every month I have a routine where I make sure batteries and devices that I don’t use regularly are charged. Some may think that I’m a “prepper” getting ready for a major disaster, but I’m definitely not that extreme (I don’t have a bunker and am not off the grid!). You never know when some of this will come in handy; a few months ago the power went out at dinner time due to an emergency transformer replacement. I pulled out the LED lanterns I have (the orange pucks in the picture) and we had light. It wasn’t a big deal.

I know that I still have a lot of work to do to be fully prepared for an emergency, but having light, some power, and cooking equipment (my camping stove is in the garage and we have a gas grill outside) goes a long way. The good news is that much of my gear is used for camping so it isn’t just sitting around collecting dust (some emergency meals I have need to be checked as I have no idea how old they are!).

I highly recommend that people regularly charge devices, check flashlights, and have some portable battery packs lying around.

Also, just about all my devices can be charged via USB which makes it easier to charge everything.

In case people are curious, here’s what is in the picture.

Fighting back against rebates

The other day I was filling out a rebate form and it got me thinking. Rebates are a great way for companies to make people believe that they are getting a deal on a product. The reality from what I’ve read, is that most people don’t bother filling out rebate forms or fill them out incorrectly and don’t receive the rebate thereby making rebates just a marketing gimmick. Years ago, the minority of people that received rebates got checks that they could deposit.

At some point, companies decided to switch to prepaid gift cards that are more difficult to redeem. The gift cards expire within a few months and it is hard to use up the last few dollars of the cards since many vendors don’t do split payments across multiple payment types. After thinking about this for awhile (yes, I think about strange things), I came up with what I consider a brilliant solution. As a frequent Amazon shopper, I figured that I could just buy an Amazon gift card and apply it to my account. Amazon lets you purchase a gift card in any amount (not sure if it is whole dollars only) and then have it sent to yourself. Apply it to your account, it doesn’t expire, and there is no need to worry about spending the last bit of the card.

Next time you get one of those prepaid gift cards, go ahead and buy an Amazon gift card and either send it to me or apply it to your account! You’ll thank me for not having to deal with that piece of plastic for more than a few minutes.

Dealing with the influx of scooters

I try to get out and run 3-4 times a week down by Mission Bay as there is a nice path and I don’t have to be afraid of vehicle traffic. I used to run on the sidewalk where there was one and on dirt when there wasn’t; however with traffic whizzing by at 55 mph (speed limit is 45 mph), I got smart and decided that I’d just drive to a nice place and run. Last year on one of my runs, I noticed electric scooters parked in groups along the path. Over the course of the next few months, the scooters started appearing just about everywhere I went in the city.

The scooters are an interesting solution to the last mile problem and appear to be useful for a lot of people. However, the companies that are running the scooters have taken the approach that they’ll just “disrupt” transportation and simply do what they want and deal with the fallout and laws later. This has been a big topic on the news with injuries happening all the time, lawsuits (currently San Diego is facing a lawsuit about disabled access on the sidewalks), and some riders disobeying laws.

The San Diego mayor and city council have been working on ways to handle these scooters so that they can co-exist with everyone in the city. While this may seem like the right thing to do, I’d argue that instead of spending time trying to handle these scooters, how about taking a look at the problems they are causing and what laws already exist to handle them.

In my view, there are a number of issues that I’ve seen:

  1. Scooters are parked on the sidewalk either by the companies (or their contractors) or the riders.
  2. Scooters are being ridden on the sidewalk and the riders are getting into accidents with innocent pedestrians.
  3. Scooter riders are riding in the street in the wrong direction and not stopping at traffic lights and/or stop signs.
  4. Parent and child riding on a scooter.
  5. Kids riding the scooters.

The scooters, themselves, aren’t the problem in my opinion. It is the riders (mostly) that don’t know what they are supposed to do or frankly don’t care.

Let’s take a closer look at my list.

Scooters parked on sidewalks

This is already illegal under California Vehicle Code 21235:

(i) Leave a motorized scooter lying on its side on any sidewalk, or park a motorized scooter on a sidewalk in any other position, so that there is not an adequate path for pedestrian traffic.

While people may argue what is an adequate path, unless the sidewalk is really wide, a scooter on the sidewalk won’t allow 2 people to pass one another comfortably.

Scooters ridden on the sidewalk

This is already illegal under CVC 21235:

(g) Operate a motorized scooter upon a sidewalk, except as may be necessary to enter or leave adjacent property.

If we consider the path around Mission Bay a bike path and not a sidewalk (scooters can be ridden on bike paths), San Diego Municipal Code §63.20.7 states:

Driving Vehicles On Beach Prohibited; Exceptions; Speed Limit On Beach
(a) Except as permitted by the Director and except as specifically permitted on Fiesta Island in Mission Bay, no person may drive or cause to be driven any motor vehicle as defined in the California Vehicle Code on any beach, any sidewalk or turf adjacent thereto; provided, however, that motor vehicles which are being actively used for the launching or beaching of a boat may be operated across a beach area designated as a boat launch zone. Original

A scooter is defined as a motor vehicle under California Vehicle Code and the path around Mission Bay is adjacent to a beach thereby making it illegal to ride a scooter on the path.

CVC 21230 states:

Notwithstanding any other provision of law, a motorized scooter may be operated on a bicycle path or trail or bikeway, unless the local authority or the governing body of a local agency having jurisdiction over that path, trail, or bikeway prohibits that operation by ordinance.

Meaning that San Diego (as they have done) can regulate scooters on bike paths.

Scooters ridden recklessly

As scooter riders must have a driver’s license (or permit) and scooter are classified as motor vehicles, the riders must follow all the rules of the road including which direction they ride on the street, stopping at stop signs or traffic lights, yielding, etc. This is already covered under California Vehicle Code.

Parent and child riding on a scooter

Again, illegal under CVC 21235:

(e) Operate a motorized scooter with any passengers in addition to the operator.

(c) Operate a motorized scooter without wearing a properly fitted and fastened bicycle helmet that meets the standards described in Section 21212, if the operator is under 18 years of age.

Kids riding the scooters

Illegal under CVC 21235:

(d) Operate a motorized scooter without a valid driver’s license or instruction permit.

As I wrote in the beginning, I don’t have a problem with the scooters if they are operated in a safe and respectful manner (just like driving). I do, however, have a major problem with scooters blocking the sidewalk when parked and riders zipping by me when I’m walking on the sidewalk. In addition, driving is already dangerous enough without having to take into account a scooter rider on the road not obeying the law.

Instead of trying to add more regulations for scooters, how about the city enforce the current laws on the books? This would go a long way at solving the problems. The companies that operate the scooters could possibly do more to make their riders understand how to properly operate them. As much as I’d like to blame these companies, it is the riders that are causing the problems. The companies, however, need to stage their scooters in appropriate locations to not block sidewalks and need to pick them up in a reasonable amount of time as they look like trash scattered all over.

I am not a lawyer and this is not legal advice. This article is based on my interpretation of the laws.

Automating my TV

One of the lazy things that I’ve tried to do was have the Amazon Echo turn my TV on and off. When I had Home Assistant running on my Raspberry Pi, I used a component that controlled the TV and Apple TV via HDMI CEC. Unfortunately it wasn’t quite reliable and I lost the ability to use it when I migrated to a VM for Home Assistant.

In a recent release of Home Assistant, support was added for Roku and since I have a TCL Roku TV, I decided to give it a try. The component itself works, but has a few major limitations for me. First off it initializes on Home Assistant startup. In order to conserve a little energy, I have my TV, Apple TV, and sound bar on a Z-Wave controlled outlet. The outlet doesn’t turn on until the afternoon, so most of the time when Home Assistant restarts (I have it restart at 6 am so that my audio distribution units initialize as they also turn off at night), the TV isn’t turned on. The second issue has to do with the TV going to sleep. It has a deep sleep and a fast start mode; fast start uses more energy, so I leave it off. The Roku component uses HTTP commands to control the device or TV; when the TV is in deep sleep, it doesn’t respond to HTTP commands. This, of course, makes it impossible to turn on the TV with the component.

After thinking about this problem for awhile, I came up with some Node-RED flows to turn on the TV and handle status updates. The TV, it turns out, responds to a Wake-On-LAN packet as I have it connected via Ethernet and Home Assistant has a WOL component that lets me send the packet.

My flow to check on the TV state is a bit complicated.

  1. First it pings the TV. The ping is done every 10 seconds.
  2. If the TV responds, it sends an HTTP request to the TV.
  3. When the response comes back, it is parsed, the current application running is checked. This also lets me know what Roku channel is currently active. I have noticed that my TV reports that the Davinci Channel is active when I turn the TV off, so I special case that.
  4. If the channel is not null and not the Davinci Channel, I then send a command to check to see if the display is off.
  5. After I figure out the app and if the display is off, I craft a new payload with the current channel in it.
  6. The payload is then sent in an HTTP request back to Home Assistant’s HTTP Sensor API
  7. If the TV doesn’t respond to the ping, I set the payload to off and then send the state to the Home Assistant API.

Turning on the TV is a bit less complicated.

  1. Send WOL packet to TV.
  2. Pause.
  3. Send HTTP command to turn on TV.
  4. Send HTTP command to set input to HDMI3 (my Apple TV).

Turning off the TV is even easier.

  1. Send HTTP command to turn off TV.

When I turn on the TV outlet, the state of the TV gets updated pretty quickly as the ping command from above is running every 10 seconds.

I’ve posted the Node-RED flows below that can be imported and modified for your situation.

Download Node-RED flow to turn Roku TV on/off

Download Node-RED flow to get current TV state

Adding Energy Monitoring to Home Assistant

Now that I have Home Assistant running pretty well, I’ve started seeing what else I can add to it. There are several components for monitoring energy usage, but sadly none for my Rain Forest Automation Eagle Energy device. After a quick search, I found a Node-RED flow that looked promising. It would query the local API of the device (or the Cloud one) and give me an answer. The next step was seeing how to get that into Home Assistant. I found the HTTP Sensor which would let me dynamically create sensors. (There is so much to explore in Home Assistant, it will keep me entertained for awhile.)

With all the pieces in place, I set the Node-RED flow to repeat every 15 seconds and then use the Home Assistant API to add the usage. This worked well for a few hours, but then I stopped receiving updates only to discover that the Eagle device had stopped responding. When I checked the developer documentation, it indicated that the local API was not supported for my older device. However, an Uploader API was available that would push the data to me. That sounded interesting, so I created a flow in Node-RED that listened for a connection and then parsed the data using the flow I found before. The only problem was how do I get the device to push me the data. The Eagle device has options for cloud providers, but something I missed before is that there is the ability to add a new one. I added my Node-RED install using: and the data starting flowing!

So far this new method has been working for almost 24 hours, so I have a lot more confidence that this will keep working.

The Node-RED flow is below:

    [{"id":"b7dc8932.f85388","type":"xml","z":"15825822.ae8e1","name":"Convert to
    ":"c85cb9e0.0ba818","type":"http request","z":"15825822.ae8e1","name":"Query Active
    dc36e8","type":"switch","z":"15825822.ae8e1","name":"Is TV
    .0ba818"]],"outputLabels":["","Is awake?"]},{"id":"a59cc790.158f68","type":"http
    request","z":"15825822.ae8e1","name":"Update TV
    ae8e1","name":"Set API
    name":"Set Payload to Active
    ]},{"id":"71eea783.5158f8","type":"function","z":"15825822.ae8e1","name":"Set new
    payload","func":"var channel = msg.payload\nif (channel == \"Davinci Channel\") {\n    channel =
    \"Idle\"\n}\nvar newPayload = {\"state\":channel,\"attributes\":{\"icon\":\"mdi:television\",
    \"friendly_name\":\"TV\"}}\nmsg.payload = newPayload\n\nreturn
    "type":"change","z":"15825822.ae8e1","name":"Set Channel to
    bf69c8","type":"http request","z":"15825822.ae8e1","name":"Get Device
    name":"Check active app","property":"payload","propertyType":"msg","rules":[{"t":"eq","v":"Davinci
    Channel","Null",""]},{"id":"dfba9256.d0175","type":"xml","z":"15825822.ae8e1","name":"Convert to
    ":"37ef8802.728648","type":"change","z":"15825822.ae8e1","name":"Check Display
    489ba8"]]},{"id":"adaad7e0.489ba8","type":"switch","z":"15825822.ae8e1","name":"Is Display

All In with Home Assistant

I’ve spent parts of the last 9 months playing with Home Assistant and have written about some of my adventures. A few weeks ago, I finally decided to go all in with Home Assistant and ditch my Vera. I bought an Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5 Z-Wave dongle and starting moving all my devices over to it. Within a few days, I had all my devices moved over and unplugged my Vera. Everything was running great on my Raspberry Pi B, but I noticed that the History and Logbook features were slow. I like looking at the history to look at temperature fluctuations in the house.

I had read that switching from the SQLite database to a MySQL database would speed things up. So I installed MariaDB (a fork of MySQL) on my Raspberry Pi and saw a slight increase in speed, but not much. Next was to move MariaDB to a separate server using Docker. Again, a slight increase in speed, but it still lagged. At this point everything I read pointed to running Home Assistant on an Intel NUC or another computer. I didn’t want to invest that kind of money in this, so I took a look at what I had and started down the path of installing Ubuntu on my old Mac mini which was completely overkill for it (Intel Quad Core i7, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB SSD). Then I remembered that I had read about a virtual machine image for and decided to give that a try.

After some experimenting, I managed to get Home Assistant installed on a virtual machine running in VMWare on my Mac Pro. (A few days after I did this, I saw that someone posted an article documenting this.) I gave the VM 8 GB of RAM, 2 cores (the Mac Pro has 12) and 50 GB of storage. Wow, the speed improvement was significant and history now shows up almost instantly (the database is running in a separate VM)! I was so pleased with this, I decided to unplug the Raspberry Pi and make the virtual machine my home automation hub. There were a few tricks, however. The virtual machine’s main disk had to be setup as a SATA drive (the default SCSI wouldn’t boot), suspending the VM confused it, and the Z-Wave stick wouldn’t reconnect upon restart. After much digging, I found the changes I needed to make to the .vmx file in the virtual machine:

    suspend.disabled = "TRUE"
    usb.autoConnect.device0 = "name:Sigma\ Designs\ Modem"

(The USB auto connect is documented deep down on VMWare’s site.)

I’ve rebooted the Mac Pro a few times and everything comes up without a problem very quickly, so I’m now good to go with this setup. Z-Wave takes about 2.5 minutes to finish startup vs. 5 or 6 on the Pi. A friend asked if I was OK with running a “mission critical” component on a VM. I said that I was because the Mac Pro has been rock solid for a long time and my virtual machines have been performing well. I could change my mind later on, but I see no reason to spin up another machine when I have a perfectly overpowered machine that is idle 95% of the time.

What next? Now that I have more power for my automation, I may look at more pretty graphs and statistics. I may also just cool it for awhile as I’ve poured a lot of time into this lately to get things working to my satisfaction. This has definitely been an adventure and am glad that I embarked on it.

Dipping my toe in the world of Docker

A former co-worker of mine has talked about Docker for years and I’ve taken a look at it a few times, but have generally been uninterested in it. Recently with my interest in Home Assistant, I’ve decided to take another look as many of the installs of Home Assistant as well as are based on Docker.

I’ve used virtual machines running on VMware Fusion for years with some Windows installs and some Linux installs. I’m very comfortable with Linux, but kind of dislike maintaining different packages. There are package managers that handle much of it for me, but then there are other packages that have special installations.

I had a few goals in mind for seeing if Docker could replace the current virtual machines I had running for Pi-hole and Observium. The goals were pretty simple that I wanted easy updates and be able to easily backup the data. In the Docker world, updates are dead simple and in many docker containers, the data is stored outside of the container making it easy to backup. As another goal, I wanted to be able to experiment with other containers to see what else I could add to my network.

With all this in mind, I started looking at how to setup Docker. Pretty quickly, I realized that Docker for the Mac was virtually useless for me as it didn’t handle all the networking that Docker running on Linux could. So that meant installing Docker on a Linux VM; that almost negated my goal of easy updates as I’d still have to update the virtual machine running Ubuntu. I could live with that if the rest of the setup was straight forward and didn’t have to remember how to update each container individually.

In order to make backups easy, I wanted to store the data on my Mac and not inside of the virtual machine. I’ve not had great luck with the VMWare tools for mounting volumes, so I decided to use CIFS (SMB) to mount a volume in Linux which works well except for the MariaDB (MySQL fork) Docker container. Not a big deal, I’d just add a cron job to dump the databases every few hours and store the dumps on the mounted volume. I added the following to /etc/fstab

    //myserver/account/Documents/Ubuntu /mnt/mediacenter cifs username=account,domain=WORKGROUP,password=password,rw,hard,uid=1000,gid=1000 0 0

I also had to turn on Windows File Sharing options on the Mac.

The crontab is:

    30 */2 * * * /usr/local/bin/backup_mysql

with the backup_mysql file being

    /usr/bin/mysqldump -h -u root -ppassword --lock-all-tables --all-databases | gzip > /mnt/mediacenter/backups/mysql/mysql_backup_$(date +"%m-%d-%Y-%H_%M_%S").gz
    find /mnt/mediacenter/backups/mysql/* -mtime +3 -exec rm {} \;

The next hurdle was dealing with IPv6; most people don’t care about it, but I’m not most people! IPv6 is quite complicated (at least to me), so that took a bit of experimenting to get it to work in Docker. For future reference, ndppd lets the virtual machine tell the world that it handles IPv6 for the Docker containers (basically).

So where was I? After getting the Linux VM setup, it was on to setting up my containers. With docker-compose, I could setup one file that was the configuration for all my containers. Now this was great as I could modify it and test out different containers. After a few days of work, this is the core of my docker-compose file. There are a few other containers I’ve added including LibreNMS, but this is basically what I have. The nginx-proxy is great as I just add DNS entries for each service and it handles SSL and lets me run multiple web services on the same machine.

version: "2.3"
   image: jwilder/nginx-proxy
     - "80:80"
     - "443:443"
     - "::1:8080:80"
     - /var/run/docker.sock:/tmp/docker.sock:ro
     - '/mnt/mediacenter/docker/certs:/etc/nginx/certs'
   restart: always
        ipv6_address: XXXX:XXXX:XXXX:XXXX:1::2

    image: pihole/pihole:latest
      - "53:53/tcp"
      - "53:53/udp"
      # enter your docker host IP here
      # IPv6 Address if your network supports it
      ServerIPv6: XXXX:XXXX:XXXX:XXXX:1::3
      - '/mnt/mediacenter/docker/pihole/pihole/:/etc/pihole/'
      - '/mnt/mediacenter/docker/pihole/dnsmasq.d/:/etc/dnsmasq.d/'
      - '/mnt/mediacenter/docker/pihole/pihole.log:/var/log/pihole.log'
      # WARNING: if this log don't exist as a file on the host already
      # docker will try to create a directory in it's place making for lots of errors
      # - '/var/log/pihole.log:/var/log/pihole.log'
    restart: always
        - NET_ADMIN
        ipv6_address: XXXX:XXXX:XXXX:XXXX:1::3

     image: mariadb
       - 3306:3306
       - '/mariadb/data/:/var/lib/mysql/'
       MYSQL_ROOT_PASSWORD: password
     restart: always
     user: "1000"
        ipv6_address: XXXX:XXXX:XXXX:XXXX:1::4

      driver: bridge
      enable_ipv6: true
        driver: default            
            - subnet:                
            - subnet: "XXXX:XXXX:XXXX:XXXX:1::/120"                

Phew, that was a lot of work to get things running. However, I’m pretty pleased with how things are working. I now have the ability to experiment with other containers and can restore my data easily if things go awry. Is Docker the answer to everything? Probably not, but it appears to handle this job well.

Setting up a Leviton VRCZ4-M0Z for use with Home Assistant

I’ve been so pleased with Home Assistant that I decided to see if I could migrate completely away from Vera and run all my Z-Wave devices on Home Assistant. Currently Home Assistant uses OpenZwave as the base and has basic support for a lot of Z-Wave devices. While OpenZwave isn’t as mature as Vera in its implementation, I found that with the exception of 4 Leviton VRCZ4-M0Z zone controllers, everything worked well. I’ve read that some people have had problems with Z-Wave on Home Assistant, but so far things have been going quite well for me using an Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5 as the controller. I suspect that my success is due to the type of devices I have (only outlets, switches, 1 light bulb, 2 portable MiniMote controllers and these VRCZ4s); I don’t have any sensors and only 2 of my devices are battery powered.

In order to complete my transition away from Vera, I had to get the 4 VRCZ4s to work. A Google search turned up very little information on how to do this with the exception of one post that gave me some clues. The post uses a third party piece of software that I don’t have to program the controllers, so that was pretty much out. However, the post did talk about the SCENE_CONTROLLER_CONF Z-Wave command class. With this information in hand, I decided to see if I could program my controllers.

Here’s what I eventually did.

Controller Programming

  1. Sign up for a developer account on Silicon Labs.
  2. Download the Z-Wave Developer kit, specifically the Z-Wave PC Controller software. (Windows only, but works fine in VMWare Fusion)
  3. Reset the VRCZ4 by pressing and holding the left side of buttons 1 & 3 until it blinks amber and then remains a solid red.
  4. Press left side of buttons 1 & 3 of the VRCZ4.
  5. Add node in Z-Wave config in HA
  6. Wait until node is added. I like to look the the OZW_Log.txt to check status. The node will say Complete next to it when it is done.
  7. Select node in Z-Wave config called Leviton VRCZ4-M0Z. Make a note of the node number.
  8. Rename Entity by going to Node Information, selecting the gear and entering a new node.
  9. Under Node Group Associations, select Group 1
  10. Make sure Aeotec Z-Stick (node 1) is selected and click Add to Group.
  11. Repeat the above 2 steps for Groups 2-4. The VRCZ4 needs to know where to send commands when the buttons are pressed.
  12. If you have other devices you want to control such as lights or outlets and they support Z-Wave association, associate the devices with the VRCZ4 now. Groups 1-4 corresponds with buttons 1-4. So if you want button 1 to control an outlet, associate it with the outlet.
  13. If all the buttons on the VRCZ4 are going to be associated with other devices, you can stop here as the associations will cause the buttons to turn on/off the associated devices. You can even associate more than 1 device to a button (i.e. 2 backyard lights).
  14. If you want of the buttons to control scripts or automations on Home Assistant, you’ll have to do some more steps.
  15. Shutdown the HA box (not just HA, but the entire box).
  16. Connect Aeotec Z-Stick to computer with Z-Wave PC Controller software.
  17. Launch PC Controller software.
  18. Click Command Classes
  19. Locate node of controller on left side.
  20. Click on it and then click Node Info.
  21. Double click SCENE_CONTROLLER_CONF in the lower left.
  22. Change command to SCENE_CONTROLLER_CONF_SET.
  23. Click the button in the lower right to show the log.
  24. At this point, you need to program each button where you are not using associations to control devices.
  25. The Group IDs for the buttons are as follows:
    Button 1 on - 1
    Button 2 on - 2
    Button 3 on - 3
    Button 4 on - 4
    Button 1 off - 5
    Button 2 off - 6
    Button 3 off - 7
    Button 4 off - 8
  26. For each group ID, you have to assign a scene ID. Apparently the scene IDs should be unique across the entire Z-Wave network, but for my case I assigned the same scene IDs for each controller and can distinguish between the controllers in Home Assistant. You can choose whatever numbering scheme you want, but I went with the following:
    Button 1 on - 1
    Button 1 off - 2
    Button 2 on - 3
    Button 2 off - 4
    Button 3 on - 5
    Button 3 off - 6
    Button 4 on - 7
    Button 4 off - 8
  27. For each group ID, assign a scene ID and click send.
  28. You’ll see some message in the logs.
  29. To verify that the scene IDs are set, press a button and in the log you will see a SCENE_ACTIVATION_SET message with the scene ID.
  30. Note that the group IDs and the scene IDs are in hex. Since I’m only using 1-8, it doesn’t matter but if you use different scene IDs, be aware of this.
  31. Repeat for each button you want to set.
  32. Unplug the Aeotec Stick from the computer and plug it back into HA and reboot HA.

Using the Scenes

The programming has now been done, so the next step is to use the new commands in Home Assistant. I use Node-RED and have setup a sequence that handles all of my controllers.

1. Drag an events node (top left in Home Assistant) to the workspace and set it up to only look at zwave.scene_activated events.

2. Use a switch node to differentiate between the controllers.

3. Use a change node to extract the scene ID.

4. Next use a switch node to separate out the scenes. If you didn’t follow my scene numbering, you will have to enter whatever scene IDs you used.

5. Connect up nodes for each scene.

While this seems like a lot of work, I probably took longer for me to write this up then to actually configure a controller! I’m not an expert in Home Assistant, Node-RED or Z-Wave so send feedback if you have any.


Auto Layout in a UITableViewCell with an image

Auto Layout is an amazing concept for developing iOS apps as it allows for an application to more easily look good across different devices. In addition it makes using dynamic type so much easier; as someone that wears glasses I always increase the type size on my devices and when apps don’t take advantage of it, I get kind of annoyed. So when I develop apps, I try to use dynamic type and using auto layout makes things so much easier.

A common theme in apps I develop is to have a UITableView with a bunch of rows. The rows have different bits of text and the only sensible way to develop this is using auto layout. With the latest releases of iOS, a lot of code dealing with dynamic type, heights of cells, responding to device changes, etc. has been eliminated. However, there are still a few gotchas in making an app with a UITableView that behaves properly.

I’m going to go over the steps I used (and provide sample code) for how I handle this. I had a few requirements that make my implementation a little different than other tutorials on the web.

  • Each cell has an image that would be at most 1/3 the width of the screen.
  • The image must touch the top and bottom of the row.
  • The image had to be at least a certain height.
  • The image should attempt to have the aspect ratio of the original image. (Aspect Fit could leave white space; Aspect Fill could hide some of the image.)
  • Images are loaded asynchronously from the Internet.
  • Next to the image is up to 5 lines of text pinned to the top.
  • Next to the image is 1 line of text pinned to the bottom.
  • Each line of text could wrap to multiple lines.
  • Increasing the type sized must resize the rows.
  • The cell must have a minimum height.
  • Rotating the device must work.

Writing that out sure looks more complicated than it was in my head!

I’m not going to go over the initial project setup, but will jump right into Interface Builder after I created a UITableViewCell with xib. Note that I don’t use Storyboards and opt to create a separate xib for each view controller and each cell; Storyboards tend to bite me each time I use them as I like to re-use code as much as possible and by default the Storyboard for a UITableViewController puts the cell in the Storyboard making it harder to manage. I’m sure some would argue with me that Storyboards are great, but they just don’t work for me.

  1. Create a new UITableViewCell with a xib.
  2. In the xib, add a UIImageView to the left side that is pinned to the left, top, and bottom of the cell.
  3. Set the UIImageView to Aspect Fill and Clip to bounds.
  4. Give the UIImageView fixed width and height constraints. (We’ll change this later.)
  5. Add a vertical stack view pinned to 10 pixels from the UIImageView, pinned to 10 pixels from the top and 10 pixels from the right.
  6. Add 5 UILabels to the stack view. Each label should be set for “Automatically adjusts font” and a Font of Body. Set 1 or more of the labels to have 0 Lines so that it grows vertically. Also, set auto shrink to minimum font scale of 0.5.
  7. Add another vertical stack view pinned to the leading of the first stack view, 10 pixels from the right and bottom of the container and on the top to be >= 5 from the other stack view.
  8. Add a UILabel to this stack view. Set the font as above.
  9. Set the height constraint of the UIImageView to a priority of 250 (low).
  10. Add a UIActivityIndicator that is centered on the UIImageView (set the constraints).
  11. Create a UIImageView subclass that looks like this. The UIImageView uses the intrinsic size of the image in the absence of other constraints and we want more control of the height of the view.
    class ExampleImageView: UIImageView {
        var minimumHeight: CGFloat = 0
        override var intrinsicContentSize: CGSize {
            if minimumHeight == 0 {
                return super.intrinsicContentSize
            return CGSize(width: 0, height: minimumHeight)
  12. Change the UIImageView class to ExampleImageView.
  13. Connect outlets for the 6 UILabels, the UIImageView (with the new class), the activity indicator and the height and width constraints on the UIImageView.

Your xib should look like this:

Time to move into the source of the table view cell. I’m only going to cover the interesting parts here. See my example repo at for the full example.

  1. Setup a variable for the cell width. This is going to be set through the view controller so that rotation changes can change the width of the image.
    var cellWidth: CGFloat = 0 {
        didSet {
            maxImageWidth = cellWidth / 3
    fileprivate var maxImageWidth: CGFloat = 120
  2. Add a method for setting the image width.
    fileprivate func setImageWidth() {
        if let image = cellImageView.image {
            let scale = image.size.height / contentView.frame.size.height
            var newWidth = image.size.width / scale
            if newWidth > maxImageWidth {
                newWidth = maxImageWidth
            let animator = UIViewPropertyAnimator.init(duration: 0.1, curve: .easeOut) {[weak self] in
                guard let self = self else {return}
                self.cellImageViewWidthLayoutConstraint.constant = newWidth
  3. Next in the view controller, add the following to handle the change in width of the cell.
    override func willTransition(to newCollection: UITraitCollection, with coordinator: UIViewControllerTransitionCoordinator) {
        if let visibleCells = tableView.visibleCells as? [ExampleTableViewCell] {
            for cell in visibleCells {
                cell.cellWidth = tableView.frame.width
        super.willTransition(to: newCollection, with: coordinator)

Believe it or not, I think that’s it! I’ve spent at least 4 weeks on this issue and keep running into some problem. Rotation and changing font sizes (Accessibility Inspector is great for testing) kept bringing up issues.

The example repo can be found here:

Feedback/changes are welcome! I’m sure I’m not doing something correct or there is an easier way; I just haven’t figured it out, yet.