How would I evacuate in an emergency?

This year has brought more reasons to prepare for an emergency and has gotten me asking myself if I am ready. When we had the great toilet paper shortage of 2020, I worked with my son on preparing our emergency kit as he was working on his Emergency Preparedness Merit Badge. This was a good start, but was more geared towards what to do when we didn’t have access to supplies or food. We didn’t think much about evacuations until the fires in Northern California started.

Several years ago, I wrote about preparing for an emergency. This was a start for what we’d need to take if we had to evacuate our house. Looking at the people leaving their homes in Santa Cruz and not being able to return for potentially weeks, having digital copies of things is only part of the solution.

How else can we prepare in case of an evacuation? Thinking about this, I realized that we have camping gear that is readily accessible. This includes tents, sleeping bags, ground clothes, flashlights, camping stove, etc. If we grabbed all this as we were leaving, we’d have a lot of gear needed to survive outside of our house. Clothing is one area that I will say that we’re not that organized for an evacuation. We do have duffel bags under the bed, so we’d grab them and shove clothes in them.

While the reasons to evacuate our house in San Diego are small (tsunami is unlikely, wildfire where we live is also not likely; the most likely reason is post earthquake having a limited amount of time to gather stuff), I think that given 15 minutes, we would be in good shape to evacuate. The plan is pretty basic and consists of gathering the following:

  • Laptop bag in my office – stuff it with the hard drives and other documents (extra keys and safe deposit key as well) that are kept in the fire safe. The bag already has an extra laptop charger and a way to connect the drives. Also, put my laptop in the bag.
  • Portable electronics including hotspot, laptop, iPads and phones.
  • Plastic boxes next to the fire safe that has chargers, some camping supplies, flashlights, HAM radio equipment.Supply Boxes
  • My wallet and keys.
  • Portable HAM radio off my desk.
  • Hats and coats that are easy to grab on the way out.
  • 3 large plastic containers of emergency supplies that are in the garage.
    Emergency Supplies
  • Tents, sleeping bags, chairs, and tarps used for camping.
    Tents and Camping Supplies
  • Gallons of water that are in the garage stored right as we enter the garage. We use these for camping, so they are replenished periodically.
  • Some clothes. Put them a duffel bag stored under the bag. Include hiking shoes.

After pulling together everything, I’d load it into the car (along with the mammals) and go.

Our house is relatively small and my office is right next to the garage, so getting items out of my office and loading them into the car is easy. The camping gear is in a rack above my car and the emergency supply boxes are in a cabinet right in front of my car.

I hope that I never have to use my plan, but by thinking about it and rehearsing it in my head makes me rest easier at night.

Ryobi Tools Still Going Strong

About a decade ago, I wrote about Ryobi cordless tools. At the time, I stated that the tools weren’t the top of the line, but adequate for my use. In the course of that time, I’ve added a number of tools and batteries to my collection. I’ve been very pleased with the variety of tools from a tire inflator to a jigsaw to a vacuum cleaner.

I think I’m up to almost 20 tools and a handful of batteries. Having the right tool for the right job is always key to me, so when I’ve found deals on new tools to add to the collection, I’ve been trying to jump on them. In the time that I’ve owned all the tools, I’ve had 2 or 3 batteries fail, but other than the circular saw initially not working, everything is holding up. My most used tool is probably the reciprocating saw. It has gotten beat up as I use it to cut bamboo, tree limbs, etc. It still is a solid performer.

For the average homeowner, I would hands down recommend the Ryobi 18V tool system as having a single type of battery for all tools makes it so easy to just grab a tool and use it. I have 2 of the chargers mounted on my workbench and can just charge batteries when I need them; the charged batteries sit on a shelf and I always have one ready.

Failure of Slent Sunglasses Nose Pieces

Last year I purchased a pair of prescription sunglasses from SportRX. As my eyes are pretty bad, my choice of sunglasses is quite limited (thick lenses). This time I got a pair of 100% Slent glasses. These glasses have held up fairly up with all my outdoor activities as well as driving. Unfortunately I recently noticed that the nose pieces had melted. This is either from the heat when the glasses sit in my car in the center compartment (not in direct sunlight) or broke down due to my sunblock.

IMG 3192

When I contacted SportRX, they said to contact 100%. 100% said that I should contact SportRX and get them covered under warranty. I’ve had them over a year, so the warranty has already expired. A helpful customer service rep at 100% tried looking for replacements, but was apparently unable to locate any and offered me 50% off at their site. Since I only wanted sunglasses, it would cost me $55 to just replace the nose pieces! Ouch.

The nose pieces are pieces of rubber so I decided to ask my son if he could 3D model replacements and I could print them in TPU. It wouldn’t quite be the same material, but I thought it would work well enough. After 6 iterations, he was able to come up with replacements that fit well. My 3D printer has once again proven its value!

IMG 2951

While the nose piece isn’t as comfortable as the rubber that came with the sunglasses, they’ll do the job.

My son has allowed me to post the STL file as long as I give him credit for his hard work.

Here is the file.

I hope that these help someone and I wish that companies would provide STL files for parts so that people can print replacements (or make replacement parts available at a reasonable price) and not simply throw something out because a simple part needs to be replaced.

Searching for a new car

Several years ago I was in the market for a new car. I really wanted a PHEV (plugin hybrid electric vehicle) as most of my driving is around town, but I’d have the flexibility to go on longer trips. At the time there weren’t many choices that interested me. I test drove an Audi A3 e-tron and while it was a nice little car, it didn’t have CarPlay. After Apple introduced CarPlay, I knew that I had to have it on my next vehicle as I never wanted to update the maps in the navigation again and with annual iOS updates, I knew that I’d get tweaks to the system every year which I’ve come to expect.

I continued my car search and was looking for either a compact SUV or a hatchback/wagon/5 door that had OK gas mileage, some technology and of course, CarPlay. My options were quite limited and I found the 2017 Subaru Impreza. At the time, Toyota wasn’t onboard with CarPlay, so I’d have to leave Toyota. On paper, it had everything I wanted (except PHEV). The price was right and I purchased one right when a local dealer got it. While the car isn’t a sports car, I enjoy using the paddle shifters sometimes and the car has performed OK. It was the first model year on a new platform and has had some problems (6 recalls at the last count). The car has enough room to go camping (I’ve downsized our camping equipment and am strategic about what we bring) and we’ve used it on a few road trips. I went from a Toyota Highlander to the Impreza, so I lost a bit of room.

As I mentioned earlier, CarPlay was a requirement for me and I’ve written about it before. Unfortunately, the infotainment system in the car has been the biggest disappointment for me. Early on, CarPlay wouldn’t always start and required me to figure out how to reboot the system which sometimes doesn’t work. There have been a number of software updates each requiring me to take it to the dealer. It has gotten better, but there are still times when the system won’t boot or I have to reset it. There has even been a class action lawsuit about the system. Some people on various forums ask if others bought the car just because of the infotainment system or they are overreacting; I actually did purchase the car because of the infotainment system and would have looked elsewhere.

Other than the infotainment system, the car has functioned adequately; my new car excitement has worn off and it is just a car. I’ve had an issue with low speed shifting, but the dealer says that it isn’t a problem. With only a few Subaru dealers in San Diego, taking it to another one for service isn’t a feasible option to get a second opinion.

The car still serves its purpose and has pretty low mileage on it, but right before the world got turned upside down this year, I saw that Toyota was coming out with a PHEV RAV4. After reading about it, I knew that this is the car I would have purchased if it had been out a few years earlier. The waiting game began once I had my heart set on replacing my car!

As I’ve written about before, dealers are charging huge markups and supply is limited on the RAV4 Prime, so I wait. I’d really like to get this vehicle before the federal tax credit runs out because it will be a lot less attractive at $7,500 (+ local incentives) more.

Supply and Demand or …

For a number of reasons, I’ve decided to get a new car. I’ve settled on the Toyota RAV4 Prime as it is really the vehicle I wanted 5 years ago when I was searching for a car. The car is a plugin hybrid (PHEV) which means that most of my driving will be on electric (42 miles on electric). With my newly installed solar, I won’t be paying extra for the electricity (I’ve already paid for it and factored in this car when sizing the system).

The problem now is that the car is in such high demand and Toyota is going to make less than 5000 this model year. While the vehicles are starting to show up according to reports on forums, dealers in Southern California have decided that a $10,000 markup is the way to go. I’ve read that in other regions (Southern California including San Diego is considering the LA region) such as the northwest and east coast, people are getting the cars at MSRP which is reasonable.

Every dealer I’ve communicated with in San Diego and LA is adding the markup no matter the trim. That number is ubiquitous across the board. On one forum that I posted this to, someone suggested that I look at an article on the FTC’s website. The article says that while dealers can charge what they want for a vehicle, they basically have to come to their pricing on their own independently of other dealers. Given that they all (of the ones I’ve contacted) are charging the exact same amount over MSRP, did they come to this conclusion on their own or did they come to the pricing together as a region? One salesman speculates that it is regional. However, there are some people on RAV4 forums who are talking about different markups; I’m not sure of their regions.

Is what the dealers doing legal? I have no idea. Is it right? In my opinion, no and it goes into the feeling that many people have that car dealers are not the most honest people. Going into a dealership makes me cringe and this just reinforces it.

I guess I’ll be waiting awhile for the vehicle I want; hopefully I can get it before the federal tax credit runs out.

Scott’s Cyber Safety Primer

Lately the topic of cyber safety has come up a few times for me. I’m the point person for CyberChip for my son’s Scout troop. I help the Scouts earn the award which is required for the Scout and Star ranks; I’ve overseen a few Scouts complete the requirements. In addition to this, I’ve seen how something innocuous that has been posted years ago can come back and be devastating. Lastly, have seen how someone could easily get scammed.

While I don’t claim to be an expert on cyber security, I did have lunch with Phil Zimmerman to discuss working on he Mac port of PGP and had Phil Karn as a mentor teaching me about Linux! I’ve been using the Internet for over a quarter of a century and have learned a few things about “being safe”.

Using two of the points of CyberChip Internet Safety Pledge as a starting point, I’m going to elaborate on what I think is important.

I will think before I post.

This is a pretty important point as everything on the Internet exists forever. If you do a search on my name, you’ll find posts I made years ago. Luckily, most of it is innocent. Recently I learned of someone that was terminated from a position because of a post they made many years ago. Even if you post something that you think is private, send a picture to someone or send a text, there could be a data breach or the recipient could take the message and post it, blackmail you, or in other way cause you irreparable harm.

While your messages to others could be encrypted (like using iMessage), the other end can easily take a screenshot of whatever you wrote and use it against you.

Unless you want something to come back on you at some point in the future, don’t post it or send it electronically.

Also, remember that when you take photos, the location of the photo is stamped (in the metadata) on the photo. If you are on vacation or traveling and post pictures with the location data on the photo, people can know that you aren’t home. If you are home, people can know where you live. While there are a number of ways to find out where people live, you don’t want to make it easy on them. When sharing photos, remove the location data (in iOS when you share, there is an option to remove the data) and don’t post photos when you are traveling; wait until you return home.

I will protect myself online.

This point requires a little more effort than “thinking before you post” and relates to password security, fake websites and scammers.


The common thinking on passwords is to create complex passwords that you can remember such as substituting numbers for letters and symbols for other letters. This thinking is nearly impossible to combine with the thinking that you should create a separate password for every website. The only way to reconcile this is to use a password manager such as 1Password, LastPass, or Dashlane to name a few. Each site must have a separate password and each password must be complex. Of course, you have to remember your “master” password to get into the password manager.

You cannot write down any of your passwords with the exception that some of the password managers setup a “recovery” sheet where you write down your master key and then the sheet should be placed in a safe or a safe deposit box. It is quite unlikely that someone will go through the trouble of getting your recovery sheet.


When I first registered a domain many years ago through Network Solutions, it wasn’t easy to do. This became a slight hurdle in people setting up scammy websites. Since then, getting a domain name and setting up a website can be done in minutes. There are tons of sites that rely on typos to major websites to redirect users to their sites. Luckily many browsers pick up on this and make it easy to get to the right site. People are taught that seeing the lock icon in a browser means that a site is secure. While that is true, you have to look at what that means. Obtaining an SSL certificate up until recently took a little extra effort and wasn’t particularly cheap. With the advent of Let’s Encrypt, getting an SSL certificate is now free and easy to setup. I use Let’s Encrypt and securing traffic from my browser to servers is great.

Securing traffic is only part of a secure website. You have no idea what happens behind the scenes. Years ago I worked for a company that stored credit cards in clear text in an unencrypted database along with the CVV codes. In my tenure at the company I worked to bring it into compliance with PCI DSS, but credit card numbers were still accessible to employees and they still had roundabout access to CVV codes.

So even if a site has a lock icon, it doesn’t mean that it is safe to visit the website. Securing the traffic is very different from a site being safe to visit. Even the federal government has given given bad advice on this.

One of the safest ways to visit a website is to use a trusted search engine such as Google or DuckDuckGo and click the links from there; most popular websites should be at the top of the search results. However, before clicking a link check that it is indeed the site you want to visit.


The other day I got a phone call that purported to be from Apple security saying that my Apple ID had been compromised. The call came from a Michigan number and was a recording. I pressed one and was connected to an agent. I asked for his employee ID and he responded with FUC…

Companies will not proactively call you about security issues. If you suspect there is an issue, hang up and call the company to verify the information. Also asking for an employee ID is a good way to weed out some scammers.

Never give out information to anyone that calls you; always call the company back if you have questions. Also never give anyone access to your computer remotely.

AppStores/Installing Software/Malware

If possible, always install software from an AppStore. While this doesn’t guarantee that you won’t get malware, it does reduce the possibility. Verify that software comes from a known source if you can’t install it from an App Store.

If you see messages that your computer is running slow or “click here” to get support, you may have malware on your computer. If this happens, immediately turn off WiFi and either contact your most tech savvy friend or family member for advice or take the computer to BestBuy’s GeekSquad to remove the malware.

Credit Cards

Whenever you pay for something online, always use a credit card. Never use a debit card. Credit cards have better consumer protections than debit cards. Never give a credit card number to anyone that calls you! If you make a purchase over the phone, verify that the phone number you are calling belongs to the proper company. Don’t just call any random number you find doing a Google search.


  • Anything you post on the Internet even in private could come back to haunt you.
  • Remove location data from photos before sharing.
  • Always use a different password for every website.
  • Use a password manager.
  • The lock icon on a website doesn’t mean the site is safe.
  • If you have to call a company, verify the number that you are calling is actually for the right company and not just some random number you found.
  • Install software from an App Store or a known source.
  • Never give your credit card number to someone that calls you. Always call a company back.
  • Never use a debit card on the Internet; only use credit cards.

Always learning

Throughout my career I have always had to learn new technologies in order to survive and thrive. New technologies include programming languages, toolkits, and operating systems. While I learned many things in college, the one idea that has been most important to me is the ability to teach myself anything that I need to know.

In a field like technology where it is always changing, what I knew 5 years ago may no longer be relevant today. Recently I was asked about certain types of app architectures, MVC, MVVM and VIPER. At the moment I was asked, I had only used MVC and really didn’t know anything about the other 2 architectures. I’m sure this made me look like I wasn’t well versed in something that certain individuals may consider basic. Seeing a gap in my knowledge, I looked up information on what I didn’t know, consulted with a friend (and former colleague) and decided to teach myself MVVM. Within a day I had a basic understanding of MVVM and within 2 weeks, I had completely overhauled an application to use MVVM as that architecture was easy to understand and made a lot of sense moving forward.

In a job interview I’m sure employers are looking for what people know today and not what they can learn. Unfortunately they are potentially missing out on good, smart people. Technology will change; if people can’t learn they may not be able to produce apps in a few years. However, if you know COBOL and haven’t learning anything knew if 30 years, you still might be able to get a job.

While I’m definitely not at the forefront of using and knowing technologies like I mentioned above and new ways of writing apps such as SwiftUI, I have the skills to learn just about anything and quickly. Knowing technologies is great, but being able to quickly learn new ways of writing software is possibly more valuable to me.

Revisiting Open Source

I wrote about open source about a decade ago and how it can be good and bad. Recently I had a conversation with someone who said he wasn’t dogmatic against using open source in certain projects, but was quite cautious. I’d call this pragmatic and is what I’d like to say I am with respect to open source. In my current project, I am the sole developer working on 7 applications at once (6 iOS, 1 Mac) so my resources are quite limited. I use open source because I don’t have the time to write some code that isn’t central to the apps. However, there are other pieces such as networking, that I’ve spent the time to write from scratch so that I have full control over them.

If I was on a larger team or working on apps that couldn’t fail, i.e. health and safety, I’d be a lot more cautious about open source. If I chose to use open source, I’d make sure that every aspect of the code was reviewed and understood. For instance, just last week there was an issue with the Facebook SDK that caused apps that included it to crash. This kind of behavior should not be tolerated on apps that should not fail; my apps today aren’t going to harm anyone so while it would be inconvenient to have crashes, but wouldn’t be the end of the world.

In an ideal world, I’m not sure I’d use open source in my apps, but in the practical world, I don’t have a choice. There are definitely some great pieces of open source that exist today, but if people rely on them and don’t completely understand how they work, it will lead to failure. There are pieces of open source that are used as the fundamental building blocks of certain apps; in order to properly use them in my opinion, every developer must understand the inner workings of them so that they can debug if needed.

Working from home – Is it negotiable?

With COVID-19 having people work from home, I’m reminded of my own history of working from home.

More than 20 years ago, I worked for Critical Path Software (now part of eBay) in Portland. While Portland is a great place to visit, it wasn’t for me. I decided to leave Portland and when I told the owners of the company I was moving back to San Diego, they asked if I wanted to continue working for them. Since I had nothing else lined up (not the brightest idea to move without a job), I said sure. That was the start of me working from home.

Through many contract jobs and a full time job, I continued to work from home. I treated working from home just like working in an office and would rarely leave during the day; my work ethic wouldn’t allow it. As time went on, I realized that being in one place (i.e., my home office), wasn’t always where I did my best thinking. Running, doing errands, and being out of the house sometimes produced my best work which helped me relax the need to be in the “office”. This didn’t mean I was working any less and in fact, I’d argue that my productivity has gone up since I started being less rigid about being in the office.

Several years ago, I was offered a position that met all my requirements for a job, except for one, working from home. I thought about this a lot and decided that commuting to an office would take a lot out of me and turned it down. I know that people commute all the time, but for someone that hasn’t, I just couldn’t make that sacrifice. Luckily I still had my contract work, so I was able to make the choice.

Four years ago I was laid off and looking for work. The first job that I was offered seemed great, but I’d have to go into an office everyday. I figured how bad could it be since the commute was against traffic and just 30 minutes each way. As I didn’t have any other job prospects, I took the job. As soon as I started the job, it started to wear me down. I got up at 6 am to be at work at 7 am and leave at 3:30 pm. Everyday I came home and fell asleep on the couch. Between the commute, having to be around people all day, and being stuck in a cubical was too much for me to handle. I did manage to work from home once a week towards the end of my short stint there and swore I’d never work in an office again.

Now we’re here with many people working from home and some are asking why can’t they always work from home? I think that too many companies are stuck with the mentality that being in an office is required to do work. That clearly isn’t the case for good people. I hope that having people work from home now will get companies to re-think their work from home strategy.

Here’s some advice I’d like to offer companies that haven’t let people work from home in the past and won’t let them work from home regularly once we get back to “normal”:

  • A high performing person will be high performing no whatever where he or she is.
  • “Water cooler” talk can still happen using tools such as Slack. I chat with a former colleague and friend all the time; he helps me solve problems and is a great sounding board. I’ve only been in the same room with him maybe 3 or 4 times since we first started working together years ago.
  • Ad hoc design discussions can be just as effective through email, instant messages, screen sharing and phone.
  • People can be much less stressed by not having to deal with a commute and coming into an office.
  • Companies are missing out on good people by requiring them to come into the office or being in any particular location.
  • Being flexible makes people happier.

I’d like to say that working from home is non-negotiable for any future job or contract I take. Going into an office every once in a while is fine, but I’m not sure I could be happy going into an office everyday and that directly translates into not being fully productive.

Monitoring a SunPower Solar System

After years of waffling on if I should install solar on my house, I finally decided that it would be a good investment. While the federal tax credit went down from 30% to 26%, I would still get a bit of my investment back. The tax credit goes to 22% next year and then goes away, so if I didn’t make the leap now, I’m not sure financially it would make sense for a long time until the panel prices come way down.

Like most major investments, I did a significant amount of research. I got proposals from 9 companies using a variety of panels and inverters. For better or worse, I went with a SunPower system. SunPower wants to make it easy for people to see how much energy they are producing and their monitoring site has a very, very simple dashboard. Apparently their older dashboard (still available via a different URL that uses Flash) showed output on a per panel basis. When I asked SunPower about this, here was their response:

Unfortunately, our monitoring website only shows production data of the system as a whole. Inverter level monitoring was only offered to dealers for troubleshooting and/or repair purposes. This was not offered to homeowners because, after lengthy evaluation, that feature offers more information than is necessary to monitor ongoing system performance, but not enough information to help identify problems (on the rare occasions when they do occur). We also had concerns about the feature’s design, in part due to negative feedback from customers.

After a bit of research, I found that the monitoring device (PVS6) actually has the ability to be queried for local data. An individual with better hacking/detective skills than me figured out the commands to send to the unit and posted information on GitHub describing the setup. That looked pretty straight forward. So I decided to figure out how to integrate it into Home Assistant and into my Grafana graphs.

First step was to configure a Raspberry Pi as basically a bridge where HTTP requests sent to one port would be redirected out the other port. I didn’t need a full fledged router for this, just an HTTP proxy. I decided to use a Raspberry Pi Zero W that I had lying around as a base. I ordered an Ethernet adapter for it and that was it for hardware. My son designed a case for both pieces and I 3D printed it.

Configuring the Raspberry Pi

  1. Download the Raspberry Pi Imager
  2. Select the Raspbian Lite image.
  3. Write the image to an SD card.
  4. Create a file called wpa_supplicant.conf at the root of the image with the following:
    ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev
     ssid="<Name of your WiFi>"
    psk="<Password for your WiFi>"
  5. Add a file called ssh at the root of the image. This file should be empty.

  6. Assign a static IP address mapping on your router for the Pi.
  7. Boot the Raspberry Pi. Login using username: pi password: raspberry
  8. Update the OS using

    sudo apt-get update
  9. Install ha-proxy
    sudo apt-get install haproxy
  10. Modify /etc/dhcpcd.conf by adding the following so that the Ethernet going to the PVS6 doesn’t attempt to setup a gateway. If this happens, the Pi no longer responds over WiFi.
    interface eth0
  11. Add the following to /etc/haproxy/haproxy.cfg:
    frontend http-in
        bind *:80
        default_backend backend_servers
    backend backend_servers
        server sv1
    listen stats
        bind *:8080
        stats enable
        stats uri /
        stats refresh 10s
        stats admin if LOCALHOST
  12. Reboot the Pi.

Now when you issue HTTP calls to the Pi, they’ll goto the PVS6.

Setting up Home Assistant

I use Node-RED for most of my automations, so the following is how I poll the PVS6 from Node-RED.


Basically what I do is make an HTTP call to the Raspberry Pi over the WiFi interface that redirects to the PVS6. Using the information from the GitHub repo I found, the call is:

I then parse out the different devices that are returned (one for each inverter, one for the monitoring unit, one for the consumption meter and one for the production meter). My installer didn’t hook up the consumption meter, but I use an older version of the Rainforest Automation EAGLE-200 to connect to my electric meter and get consumption data.

This Node-RED flow generates multiple sensors that can then be used to display data right in Home Assistant or in Grafana. There is more information in the output than I need such as AC voltage, DC voltage, AC current, DC, current, etc. I use Home Assistant’s HTTP interface to create new sensors and since I have no idea how fast it can respond, I rate limit the updating of the sensors.

You can download my Node-RED flow from here.


I’m going to leave it as an exercise for the reader to setup pretty pictures in Grafana. I’ve setup a basic dashboard and some other graphs. The per panel graphs are useful to tell me if a panel isn’t operating properly. While SunPower doesn’t really want you to know this information, it is very helpful. My system was turned on (my installer and SunPower can remotely disable my system which really bothers me) yesterday and I noticed that 1 of the panels wasn’t generating power. This amounts to about 8% of my overall system; most people wouldn’t know this which makes it even more important to be able to get status on a per panel basis.

Energy Dashboard

Energy Usage

Per Panel Monitoring


I’ve written up this guide to help others, but also to refresh my memory in the future to figure out what I did. My home automation system is growing more and more complex by the day and if I don’t document at least parts of it, I’ll never be able to troubleshoot it.

Feel free to ask questions or provide comments.